Kartchner Caverns
Trail from Kartchner RV campsite to the Caverns
Took the Kartchner Caverns tour yesterday. (There are two caverns with distinct tours. I refer throughout the post to the one cavern I actually toured.) Historically there are as many as 50-60 people on tours but, due to the plague, groups are limited to six. A positive consequence of Covid.
(Positive effects of Covid 19 will be the topic of an upcoming post.)
The intimacy of the tour was a benefit but it was actually a little too intimate since social distancing was often left on the cavern floor, even with just six of us plus two guides. Masks were required, though, and thanks to multiple instructions from our guide that they cover face and nose both, they were actually worn correctly by all. Everyone was also made to wash their hands with soap and water at the cavern entrance “for 20 seconds” which was a nice touch in a nod both to Covid and to keeping the caverns as uncontaminated by tours as possible.
I’ve only visited two or three other caves in my life. In that limited experience, Kartchner was the least impressive. It was by far the most grand and elaborate, but it felt uncomfortably staged. More like a museum – or a Disney entertainment – than a natural wonder.
Most of that feeling of disconnectedness came from being restricted to a concrete walkway throughout the tour. “Please let us know if your shoes or clothing touch anything but the metal railing. A crew will follow and decontaminate.” That concrete walkway, along with it’s various supports and well camouflaged rock-like structures holding back the actual rock from cascading onto the walkway, tend to belie the oft-stated goal of maintaining the caverns’ natural state for generations to come. I guess what they really mean is maintaining the state of the caverns that the State of Arizona left behind after the years of contamination and (de)construction required to prep the caverns for untold numbers of relatively high-priced tours.
Building Kartchner Caverns Walkway
Adding to the sense of commercialization is the lighting. Lots and lots of lighting. Throughout the tour, our guides lit up sections of the cave as we approached which was very convenient but very un-cave-like. The lights were on timers that were set for relatively long durations so that we were never in the dark or even close to darkness. I’m sure the guides would point out that the lighting is relatively dim but it’s not really, which is especially ironic given that the Park trumpets its Dark Sky credentials on the way in.
No regrets though. Glad I toured the cavern. The story of how the caverns were discovered and subsequently sold to the state is the most interesting thing for me about Kartchner.
Here’s a quick interview with Gary Tenen, the surviving member of the two-man spelunker crew who discovered the caverns.
While the caverns were underwhelming for me, the Kartchner Caverns RV campground is a definite plus, though it’s a little Disney-like itself in its manicured presentation. Each spot is surrounded by low-growing trees with neighboring sites well spaced, so that it feels quite roomy and private. Each has electric and water hook-ups and there’s a dump station on the way out of the Park. There are a half-dozen or so pull-through sites but most are back-in. Most spots can handle longer RVs. The price is $30/night. Cabins are available for $59/night plus $10 for something they call a ‘reservation fee’ whatever that is.
My spot at Kartchner
Another view of my spot
2 Responses to “Kartchner Caverns”
Loved the video touch, and hearing your voice!
Lot more video coming 🙂
Comments are closed.